Brunette Ambition Read online

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  The Spotlight

  1. Never choose a dress that requires you to change yourself; find one that truly works for you, as you.

  2. When trying on a gown, remember that if you don’t go to the dressing room all done up, you’ll be able to get an idea of the dress without hair and makeup.

  3. Being comfortable will make you look even more beautiful. Obviously, we all want to look amazing and big-event-worthy, but if you don’t feel like you can move and hang out with ease, it’s not worth it.

  4. Always pick something that’s timeless rather than trendy—you’ll be able to look back on it in a decade and still love how you looked.

  5. Try to block out the noise when your friends are telling you that something looks great when it doesn’t feel right. You are the most important judge.

  ESTEE STANLEY’S TEN RED CARPET TIPS FOR REAL-LIFE EVENTS

  1. CHOOSE SOMETHING TIMELESS rather than trendy. Your money is much better spent investing in a great-quality dress that you can wear again and again, rather than on something that will look instantly dated.

  2. VINTAGE CAN BE A GREAT OPTION if you’re on a budget. People dressed up a lot more back in the day, so you can often get a dress with a ton of character without spending a fortune. Plus, you can trust that no one else will be wearing the same dress!

  3. Very few things fit perfectly right off the rack. ENLISTING THE HELP OF A TAILOR for a couturelike fit isn’t cheap, but it can elevate a dress from good enough to great.

  4. You can have a perfect body and still benefit from a BODY SHAPER: They smooth out lines, hold your tummy in (even after a big meal), and are an extra layer of fabric between your skin and the camera’s flash.

  5. GIVE YOURSELF A ONCE-OVER before you leave the house and check for deodorant marks. You can usually remove these by rubbing the fabric against itself or using the foam part from the top of a drycleaning hanger to lift the stain. Better yet, use clear deodorant.

  6. DON’T FORGET ABOUT YOUR BODY when you apply makeup. You never want a line of demarcation between the color of your face and the color of the rest of you, but you should take the time to apply either lotion and a bit of bronzer, or a shimmery self-tanner.

  7. If you’re working with a FABRIC THAT’S A BIT SHEER, make sure to take some photos of yourself with a flash to ensure that you’re not accidentally showing anything that you don’t want to show.

  8. MOVE AROUND IN YOUR DRESS before you head out the door—make sure that you’re not going to split it up the back the second you take your seat, and be sure you’re not accidentally showing your body shaper or slip when you move around.

  9. CUT OUT THE RIBBON LOOPS for hangers so they don’t make an appearance under your arm. They can make a perfect dress look messy.

  10. PACK A LITTLE KIT IN YOUR PURSE in case of on-the-road emergencies. Safety pins, a sewing kit, and double-stick tape are very helpful should you find yourself in a bathroom stall mending your dress.

  Give yourself a once-over.

  ESTEE’S TIPS FOR PLAYING UP YOUR BODY SHAPE

  Most of us aren’t shaped like fit models, so it’s important to throw the spotlight on the part of your body that you love the most. If it’s your waist, go for a fuller skirt and a dress that’s fitted through the middle to create an hourglass effect (a belt can amplify that). If you love your legs, find a fancy dress that’s cocktail length; if your arms are lovely, go sleeveless.

  The other factor that can hugely improve how well a dress fits is a great high-quality fabric. Also, well-tailored pieces are always more flattering and can do a lot to disguise any part of your body that you don’t absolutely love. And speaking of the tailor, almost everything needs to be fitted to look its best. You can get a sense of how an alteration will change the shape by moving the hemline up and down to find the most flattering length (some women love their knees, while others don’t). You can also raise or drop the waist until you find the ideal spot.

  ESTEE’S TIPS FOR MAKING SOMETHING SIMPLE SPECIAL

  1. The dress is just one part of the equation. Don’t be afraid to pick something simple and GO FOR DRAMATIC HAIR AND A BOLD LIP.

  2. You can get great wear out of a basic dress by SWAPPING IN ACCESSORIES. A big belt, bright shoes, or statement earrings can give it new life, again and again.

  3. When you’re accessorizing, DON’T GET TOO MATCHY. The belt doesn’t need to match the shoes or the necklace. And pick one statement and let the other elements be barely there (or not there at all). If you go for a bejeweled belt, for example, choose a pair of nude or black heels; if you go for big earrings, don’t feel compelled to wear a big necklace as well.

  4. DRESS SOMETHING SIMPLE UP by adding a beaded cardigan or tuxedo jacket; DRESS SOMETHING DOWN by pairing it with a bomber jacket or leather blazer.

  Go for dramatic hair and a bold lip (see this page for the how-to).

  CH 8

  HOLLYWOOD GLAM

  “Hello, gorgeous!”

  —FANNY BRICE, FUNNY GIRL

  Getting your face and hair prepped for a big event is pure fantasy: There’s nothing quite like the power of hair and makeup to completely transform your look, to turn you into a character—a beach girl, a sophisticate, a Hollywood movie star. Hair and makeup artists can wipe away sleep deprivation, cowlicks, blemishes, damaged tresses, tired eyes, and even asymmetrical features—though if they focus on making you look “perfect,” they’ve likely gone too far. Feeling confident about your hair, your makeup, and your dress is key when you step out for any big event, whether it’s the prom, your wedding, or opening night of a movie—but it’s just as essential that you still look like you, rather than a totally different person. My hairstylist, Mark Townsend, and my makeup artist, Melanie Inglessis, always play up—rather than diminish—my most unique features.

  When we’re sitting in our hairstylist’s chair at the salon or visiting with a makeup artist at a beauty counter at the mall, we’re really at our most vulnerable: Here is someone who is assessing your face and hair from every angle, looking you up and down. Make sure that you pick people who celebrate all the wonderful things about your signature look rather than nitpick everything that should be fixed—and you also want to feel like they aren’t attempting to change you. If you have curly hair, you don’t need a haircut intended for someone who has stick-straight locks, for example. You want to leave your hairstylist’s chair feeling your best, like they’ve assessed your hair and your lifestyle and given you a cut and style that really work for you. And while we don’t all visit with makeup artists routinely, you should still find a pro at a beauty counter at your local department store whom you can turn to for help. You don’t need someone who is looking to sell you a million things you don’t need—you need someone who can teach you how to play up your eyes or lips with a few key products and tools. The drugstore is wonderful for everything else.

  When you’re looking for your pros, the key is to ask friends who have great style for their recommendations—and then, instead of booking a cut, go and see this potential stylist for something like a blowout first. That way you can get a sense of whether it feels like a good match, and you can feel out what they would do to your hair: If their suggestion feels like too much work (e.g., if you have five minutes to get ready in the morning and they want to give you a cut that requires a blow-dryer and curling iron) or they want to take your look in a direction that you don’t feel comfortable with (long to short, etc.), then you should keep looking.

  I found my people in much the same way: I met Melanie at my first Glee event, and we never stopped working together. I immediately fell in love with her because she put down her brushes and ran out to get me Spanx because I was in a bind—and she’s been taking care of me ever since. I feel so comfortable with her, she’s really like a second mother. Not only does she make me look beautiful for all of my big moments, but spending time with her puts me in the right mood to step out on the red carpet. I trust that Melanie knows my fac
e and will always make me look amazing, playing up my ethnicity in the process. Sometimes she’ll even refuse to give me what I claim I want (More lip! More lash!) because she knows it won’t play right. I’ve never left her chair looking like anyone other than a great version of myself. Part of that is letting me be in my twenties, too, by keeping my makeup pretty minimal: If you wear too much, you can age yourself pretty fast.

  I met Mark shortly after I met Melanie. He’s known for being one of the best stylists in town and does big, gorgeous Hollywood hair for some of the industry’s most beautiful girls. He wanted to work with me and so he called my publicist, who told him, “That’s fine, but you have to understand that Lea’s very loyal and wants a team that’s essentially a family,” and he said, “You got it.” He’s never left my side. I feel so fortunate that he’s stuck with me, despite all the pulls on his time. You should feel like your people care enough that they’ll always make time for you—that if you need a quick bang trim, they’ll never mind if you just pop into the salon.

  Mark, Melanie, and I have the best time together: We laugh, we play music, we pass around inspiration shots. It’s all so much fun that when something theoretically stressful happens—like someone gets sick and we only have fifteen minutes to get ready, or we don’t like the look and need to scratch it all and start over with only minutes to spare—it just makes it even better. We know one another so well that we can always roll with the punches. I’m so lucky to have them in my life.

  In this chapter, Mark and Melanie break down the steps to achieve five of our favorite looks—we picked these in particular because they’re easy enough to master at home, but they’re still fun, fresh, and totally modern. And, as you’ll see, there’s a look for every occasion, from brunch with your friends to the most important of nights out on the town.

  Mark, Melanie, and me at a photo shoot getting our glam on.

  GETTING YOUR MAKEUP TO LAST ALL NIGHT

  It’s a big luxury to be able to travel with a hair-and-makeup team for red carpet events—when Mark and Melanie have to send me out on my own, they do what they can to ensure that my hair stays put (or looks even better as it becomes slightly undone) and that my makeup doesn’t migrate down my face. Here are Melanie’s tips for making makeup stick.

  1. “If you have oily skin, avoid cream-based cosmetics. Instead, use a primer for the face, and also for the eyes, and then pick products that are matte and powder based. Ultimately, you need to create a canvas that makeup can stick to. There are also mattifying gels on the market, which you apply pre-makeup. They sink into the pores and are colorless, so you can avoid building up too much product.”

  2. “If you have dry skin, using too much powder can create a cakelike effect. Choose a liquid foundation and cream-based products, which you can then set with a tiny bit of pressed powder.”

  3. “If you’d like to do a really strong lip, apply a light concealer over the lips, and then powder it ever so slightly to set it. Then go over your mouth with a pencil, filling in the entire shape. Apply lipstick next, and gloss if you want a shimmery finish. When you apply gloss, keep it in the center of your lips so it doesn’t bleed out.”

  4. “It’s key to ensure that the T-zone never gets shiny. You want your entire face to be dewy and fresh except for the T-zone. You can bring powder and pat it on (though it can get cakey if you apply too many layers), or you can pack blotting papers. Essentially, these are rice papers that absorb oil. So blot, then apply powder.”

  MAKEUP FOR PHOTOS

  Whether you’re facing down a row of cameras on the red carpet or your friend’s iPhone at dinner, a flash can really wash out your face. If getting great pictures of an event is important (e.g., at a prom or a wedding), then you probably need more makeup than you think you do—if at all possible, speak with the photographer about their lighting, as different artists like different things … and their choices will transform your makeup dramatically. Regardless of the photo style, make sure that your T-zone isn’t oily, that your hair isn’t greasy, and that all blemishes are nicely covered. Low light, lamplight, and candle-light are all very flattering, while sunlight will make everything visible (including too much makeup). If you’re prepping your face for day, make sure that your foundation is incredibly well blended (and as minimal as possible).

  Before I step out onto a red carpet or make my way to a big event, Mark and Melanie always take my picture—using a flash—so we can see how the look is translating. I urge you to do the same thing if you want to commemorate an event in photos. That way, you can tweak your look and have no regrets.

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  MELANIE’S BEAUTY SECRETS

  1. “Don’t sleep with your makeup on. It can be a drag to do your whole skin-cleansing ritual right before bed, so if that doesn’t work for you, look into wipes, or wash your face after you get home from work or school while you still have the energy.”

  2. “Exfoliate a few times a week. If your skin is very sensitive, you can always mix your exfoliator with a gentle cleanser to make it less intense (or choose an exfoliator for sensitive skin). Clarisonics are great for daily use, too.”

  3. “Drink plenty of water. Good skin starts from the inside.”

  4. “To make sure that you always look dewy, use an illuminating liquid foundation, which I like to apply with a wet beauty blender. Don’t use powder—if your skin is oily, then use a cream mattifying gel in lieu of powder.”

  5. “Keep your eyebrows maintained: They are like a hanger for your face, as all your features fall below them. They can really change your look and give you a very subtle face-lift. Don’t overpluck, just keep them defined and groomed.”

  6. “I give 99 percent of my clients a little dab of peach blush—either cream or powder—right at the top of their cheekbones before they head out the door. Smile, and tap it on very gently. It adds an instant glow and air of health.”

  7. “If you have thin lips and want them to look a little fuller, pout, and apply a lighter color right in the middle of your bow.”

  8. “If you want to play with false eyelashes, figure out which effect you’re going for first—and use single lashes for a more natural look. If you have small eyes and want to open them, put the longest lashes in the middle; if you want to elongate your eyes, place the longest lashes at the ends.”

  9. “Swap out your black mascara for brown mascara when it’s time to do your lower lashes. It will help to open up your eyes.”

  10. “To brighten the eyes, use a peachy, off-white pencil in the water line at the bottom only—it works on all skin tones.”

  11. “Highlighter can really brighten the eye area. Place a dab in the inner corner of the eye and a little right under the point of the eyebrow. It can be a cream or a powder.”

  PREPPING YOUR FACE

  It can be tempting to rush straight to the fun stuff, but prepping your face properly for makeup is more important than everything else that comes after. You need a gorgeous blank canvas with which to work, and you want your skin to look as beautiful and glowing as possible. Here’s how Melanie gets faces ready for prime time.

  1. MOISTURIZER. “Take the time to find the right moisturizer for your skin type—it should be rich enough to work but never goopy, greasy, or too thick.”

  2. PRIMER. “If you have problematic skin or oily skin, you might want to use a primer before you apply foundation: This will smooth out your skin and allow the foundation to glide on easier.”

  3. FOUNDATION. “Apply foundation from the center of your face outward, so that by the time you reach your neck, there’s very little product left and it will blend perfectly. You can use a brush, a sponge, or your fingers—go with what makes you feel most comfortable and helps you achieve a flawless, streak-free finish.”

  4. CONCEALER. “For blemishes, take a tiny brush and pat concealer directly on the area needed. The concealer should be a perfect match to your skin tone. For the under-eye area, use either a flat brush or your ring finger (the warmth of y
our finger helps to blend the concealer). Immediately below (right above the cheekbone), I tap on highlighter and apply in a similar way. Using my ring finger, I pat and roll, moving to the outer corner and lifting up.”

  5. EYEBROW BRUSH. “The perfect eyebrow shape is key, so keep them strong and groomed (don’t overpluck!). Using an eyebrow brush, gently stroke them up and over.”

  6. CONTOURING. “Using a liquid foundation that’s a few shades darker than your normal foundation color, you’ll want to blend under your cheekbones, under the jawline, and at the top of the forehead. Work slowly and with small quantities of foundation. You can always add more to build up the color—you want to add definition that looks very natural. If you’re using a powder foundation, use a powder foundation to contour; the same holds if it’s liquid or cream. Keeping the finish consistent is key.”

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  Melanie’s Tips for Finding the Right Foundation

  1. “Department store lights have little in common with natural light. After you apply the shade, walk outside to see how it looks in normal life.”

  2. “Don’t test shades on your hand, which can often be significantly darker than your face. Instead, test shades on your jawline—the right color will blend into your neck perfectly.”